Catégorie : Product Tests

Conditioning Lip Oil Balm -15ml, 9$

Saltair’s Lip Oil Balm under the spotlight

Lip oils have become the latest craze in the world of lipcare, promising to provide seamless hydration and conditioning for your lips. However, not all lip oils are created equal, and some may contain controversial ingredients that could potentially harm your lips. Some lip oils may contain synthetic oils that can actually strip your lips of their natural oils, leaving them even drier than before. Additionally, some lip oils may contain preservatives and other additives that can be harmful to your lips in the long run. It’s important to read the ingredients list carefully and choose a lip oil that is free from any potentially harmful ingredients.

The Benefits of Lip Oils

One of the biggest benefits of using lip oils is their ability to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. The natural oils in lip oils are rich in essential fatty acids that help repair the skin barrier, keeping your lips soft and supple. And even more, they are lightweight and non-greasy, making them perfect for everyday use. In addition to their moisturizing properties, lip oils also offer a range of cosmetic benefits. Their glossy finish gives your lips a natural plumpness and enhances their overall appearance. You can even find tinted lip oils that provide a subtle hint of color while conditioning your lips. They could in fact act as skincare for our lips (if the formulation is adequate) while adding the benefits of a nice shine and color.

What could be difference between Lip Oil and Lip Gloss ?

Lip Gloss is thicker in consistency and often has a higher concentration of color pigment. Lip oil is usually much thinner in consistency and offers hydrating benefits without a sticky or goopy texture. Some Lip Oils are totally transparent toppers that look glassy on bare lips, others come in a range of color options with a high shine effect. The result is plumped, hydrated lips and a a subtle sparkling effect. Let’s now have a closer look at the ingredient list.

In this article, as usual, we’ve selected a random product, Saltair’s Conditioning Lip Oil Balm.

Saltair is highlighting that its products are « formulated with active skincare ingredients, nourishing oils and exotic botanicals » ; how does this commitment look like in their products ? We will be having a closer look at the entire ingredient list – just to make it clearer what’s behind the scenes.  Moreover, we will also reveal some smart tips to help you select Lip Oil products that are free of any controversial ingredients.

Let’s dive in !

Let’s take a look at Saltair’s brand philosophy in general

« Created to deliver efficacious results, Saltair products are formulated with active skincare ingredients, nourishing oils and exotic botanicals that treat the skin and awaken the senses. Advanced skincare ingredients like niacinamide, glycolic acid, retinoids, and antioxidants are combined with exotic ingredients and evocative fragrances to create compelling and sensorial products that truly work. (….) SUSTAINABLE  : From our responsible packaging to our plastic pledge to our eco-partnerships, we’re deeply committed to protecting the planet (and are always looking for ways to improve). TRANSPARENT : You deserve to know what you’re putting on your body. That’s why we openly list every ingredient in our formulas, share its purpose, and let you know why we chose to use it. »

What is Saltair’s definition of « sustainable» and « transparent» ?

Let’s have a look at Saltair’s Conditionning Lip Oil Balm – what about the overall formulation of their product?

First of all, here are the product benefits, – as presented on Saltair’s website *:

« Our conditioning lip oil features a slippy, cushiony balm feel. Formulated with coconut oil, murumuru, shea butter and plant-derived esters, this oil balm nourishes and hydrates dry lips with a subtle sheen. CRUELTY FREE | VEGAN | PARABEN FREE | GLUTEN FREE -Formulated with coconut oil, murumuru, shea butter and plant-derived esters, this oil balm nourishes and hydrates dry lips with a subtle sheen. With coconut vanilla flavor. »

Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by taking a closer look at Saltair’s Conditioning Lip Oil Balm INCI (ingredients) list

Ingredients/ INCI*:

Full Ingredient List: Petrolatum, Diisostearyl Malate, Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, Flavor, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Synthetic Wax, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Mica, Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, BHT, Citric Acid. [+/-: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499), Red 33 Lake (CI 17200), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090)].

*Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

Ingredient analysis

As always, it is the first 5-10 ingredients that make up the majority of the product’s overall « profile ». And this profile includes already right at the beginning a large number of controversial and questionnable ingredients, an entire list mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, etc).

A list of controversial substances have slipped into the formula of Saltair’s Conditioning Lip Oil Balm

• BHT, preservative (suspected endocrine disruptor)
• Petrolatum, mineral oil, potentially occlusive and environmental concern (pollutant)
• Polybutene: mineral oil, potentially occlusive and environmental concern (pollutant)
• Polyisobutene, a synthetic preservative or hair conditioner (antistatic), part of synthetic « quats » category, substances that are not very biodegradable/polluting and slightly irritating.
• Microcrystalline Wax, mineral oil, potentially occlusive and environmental concern (pollutant)
• Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), mineral oil, potentially occlusive and environmental concern (pollutant)
• Disteardimonium Hectorite, emulsion stabiliser, part of synthetic quats category, substances that are not very biodegradable/polluting and slightly irritating.
• Synthetic Wax, mineral oil, potentially occlusive and environmental concern (pollutant)
• Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), pigment, not suitable in this kind of product, as ingredients on the lips are always partially ingested
• CI15850 and CI17200, these are azo dyes (synthetic pigments). Some studies have linked certain azo dyes to health issues such as skin irritation, allergies. And some azo dyes have even been found to be carcinogenic, mutagenic, and toxic to humans and the environment

Conclusion for the analysis of Saltair’s Conditioning Lip Oil Balm

A formulation that is far, far from the claim of «sustainable » « nourishing oils and exotic botanicals» …. The product’s formula is mainly built on a large number of controversial and polluting ingredients, problematic for the environment (mineral oils, quats) and potentially harmful and toxic substances (suspected endocrine disruptors like BHT,  azo dyes, etc). Just as an exemple, none of the substances mentioned above would be allowed by any of the serious labels/certifications for organic cosmetics in Europe : Cosmos, Nature, BdiH, Ecocert, Soil Association, Aiab, etc…

Beyond Saltair ….

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Best Lip Oil Products* for Gorgeous Lips

*without any Controversial Ingredients

1. Educate Yourself on Controversial Ingredients

Start your journey by getting informed about controversial ingredients commonly found in beauty products. You can use the website’s free INCI research tool and dive deeper into the subject with the different articles on the website.

1. Educate Yourself on Endocrine Disruptors

Endocrine disruptors are harmful chemicals present in various beauty products. These chemicals can interfere with your hormonal balance and potentially lead to serious health issues. It is never enough to choose lipsticks labeled as « paraben-free » as the products can still contain other endocrine disruptors or harmful ingredients. Certified organic cosmetics however, provide more guarantees, endocrine disruptors are simply not allowed in the formulation process by the different labels. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.

4. Avoid Silicones and mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, etc)

Silicones are commonly used in beauty products to create a smooth texture and long-lasting effects. However, they represent a huge toll on the environment, as they are not biodegradable. When selecting a lip oil product, it’s essential to look for ones that contain natural oils. Natural oils, such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, sesame oil, or argan oil, for instance, are known for their hydrating and nourishing properties. These oils help to lock in moisture and keep your lips looking healthy and plump. Be sure to avoid products that contain synthetic ingredients like mineral oils and silicones, as they can also have a drying effect on the lips. Again, silicones and mineral oil derived ingredients are not allowed in certified organic cosmetics.

2. Stay Away from PFAS (Perfluoroalkyl Substances)

PFAS (also known as « Forever Chemicals »)  are a group of chemicals used in many industries, including cosmetics. They have been linked to adverse health effects and are extremely persistent in the environment. This is a tremendous environmental concern, which of course concerns many other industries. Check the ingredient list for PFAS-related compounds like PTFE or perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and educate yourself on the subject as well.

5. Be Mindful of certain synthetic Preservatives

Preservatives are essential to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend the shelf life of cosmetics. However, some synthetic preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol have been linked to skin irritations and allergies and other more serious health concerns. Others fall into the category of endocrine disruptors (some parabens, triclosan, BHT etc).

2. Embrace Organic (certified!) Cosmetics

Organic cosmetics have gained immense popularity in recent years for their commitment to using natural and pure ingredients. Choose « certified organic »- products – and brands which have certification seals from respected organic regulatory bodies. These products are formulated without controversial ingredients and provide a gentle yet efficient alternative for keeping your hair healthy and lustrous.

Conclusion

By following these tips, you can effectively avoid, controversial ingredients like endocrine disruptors, PFAS, pollutants, silicones, and other questionable preservatives commonly found in make up and beauty products in general. Your lips, skin and hair deserve the very best care, free from any controversial ingredients that could compromise its health and radiance. By opting for certified organic cosmetics and checking your product’s ingredient list, you’re already on the right path.

In conclusion, when choosing a lip oil product, it’s important to opt for one that is made with natural oils and free from any controversial ingredients. Look for lip oils that are specifically formulated for moisturizing purposes, rather than ones that contain potentially harmful ingredients, likes mineral oils or silicones. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list. Your lips will thank you!

You can find other similar products test on the website

AMIKA SOULFOOD nourishing hair mask Lipstick -32$

We all love to take care of our hair with natural products. When it comes to maintaining our hair’s health and radiance, selecting the right hair products is paramount. As more people become conscious about the potentially harmful effects of controversial ingredients found in beauty products, the demand for cosmetics without « nasty » ingredients is skyrocketing. From petroleum based substances, to silicones, to PFAS, controversial preservatives like some parabens or phenoxyethanol, endocrine disruptors… and many other potentially toxic, polluting and controversial ingredients…., the beauty industry has seen its fair share of controversial substances.

Amika’s Soulfood Hair Mask under the spotlight

Most people are now well-informed about potentially harmful ingredients lurking in your favorite moisturizer or other beauty product. But did you take the next step and had a look at the other products in your bathroom?

Have you ever had a closer look at the ingredient list of your favorite hair mask?

In this article, as usual, we’ve selected a random product, Amika’s Soulfood Nourishing Hair Mask. Amika is advertising its products with «highly effective, clean formulas» and without any «nasties» and  we will be having a closer look at the entire ingredient list – just to make it clearer what’s behind the scenes.  Moreover, we will also reveal some smart tips to help you select hair products that are free of any controversial ingredients. Let’s dive in !

Let’s take a look at the AMIKA brand philosophy in general :

« Brooklyn born and salon raised :we celebrate our heritage by bending rules that don’t make sense and pushing beauty boundaries in Brooklyn, creativity and culture are a way of life, and we draw inspiration from our surroundings to deliver products packaged in vibrant, feel-good colors. all our haircare and tools are effective, high performing, and kind to your strands.No nasties *highly effective, clean formulas without sulfates (SLS, SLES, ALS), parabens, phthalates, DEA, aluminum starch and over 1,300 questionable ingredients banned by the EU. Always cruelty free * leaping bunny and vegan certified. our products and ingredients never have, and never will be tested on animals. »

What could the definition of « clean formulas » and « no nasties » for Amika  look like ?

Let’s have a look at Amika’s Soulfood hairmask – what about the overall formulation of their product?

For instance, here are the product benefits, – as presented on Amika’s website *:

« what is soulfood? ultra-luxurious hair mask is rich and creamy but never weighs hair down. it is packed with vitamins and nutrients to condition the hair making it soft, silky, and smoother than ever. Who it’s for :perfect for all hair types, especially those in need of deep hydration.Why it’s special :like a cool drink of water for your hair, this mask quenches hair’s thirst. the rich, moisturizing formula provides superior hydration leaving hair manageable, soft, and shiny for days. »

Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by taking a closer look at AMIKA’s Soulfood Hairmask INCI (ingredients) list
Ingredients/ INCI*:

Water/Eau/Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride*, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn/Argousier) Fruit/Seed Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride*, Panthenol, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene *antistatic agent/agent antistatique

Ingredient analysis Amika Soulfood Hairmask :

As always, it is the first 5-10 ingredients that make up the majority of the product’s overall « profile ». And Amika’s hairmask includes already a large number of controversial and questionnable ingredients, silicone-based ingredients (polluting), questionnable synthetic preservatives (Chlorphenesin, BHT) etc.

A list of controversial substances have slipped into the formula of AMIKA’s Soulfood Hairmask:

• BHT, preservative (suspected endocrine disruptor)
• The synthetic preservative Chlorphenesin, an organohalogen that can have allergenic effects and problematic because it can accumulate in the body.
• DIMETHICONE, – silicones : environmentally problematic substances (not very biodegradable), pollutants
• Cetrimonium Chloride, a synthetic preservative or hair conditioner (antistatic), which is part of synthetic quats category, substances that are not very biodegradable/polluting and slightly irritating.
• Phenoxyethanol, a controversial synthetic preservative with proven toxic potential (notably harmful to the liver)
• The « Fragrance »/ Perfume listed in the INCI list can also sometimes be a problem: since it is a non-certified product (in natural and organic cosmetics), there is a good chance that it is a synthetic fragrance, which very often also contains phthalates, also classified as endocrine disruptors. To avoid the presence of phthalates, the only certainty would be to opt for a certified product, as synthetic perfumes are simply not authorised by the various specifications in natural and organic cosmetics.

Conclusion for the analysis of AMIKA’s Soulfood Hairmask
A formulation that is far, far from the claim of « highly effective » or « clean formula» ….

In conclusion, Amika’s Hairmask contains a list of controversial and polluting ingredients, problematic for the environment (silicones, quats) and potentially harmful and toxic substances (suspected endocrine disruptors, etc)- which clashes with the claim of « clean formulas » and « no nasties » . For example, none of the substances mentioned above would be allowed by any of the serious labels/certifications for organic cosmetics in Europe : Cosmos, Nature, BdiH, Ecocert, Soil Association, Aiab, etc…

Top Tips for Choosing Hair Products Without Controversial Ingredients

Here are a couple of tips for choosing the right products

1. Educate Yourself on Controversial Ingredients:

Start your haircare journey by getting informed about controversial ingredients commonly found in beauty products. You can use the website’s free INCI research tool and dive deeper into the subject with the different articles on the website.

1. Educate Yourself on Endocrine Disruptors:

Endocrine disruptors are harmful chemicals present in various beauty products. These chemicals can interfere with your hormonal balance and potentially lead to serious health issues. It is never enough to choose products labeled as just « paraben-free » or « clean beauty » as the products can still contain endocrine disruptors or harmful ingredients. Certified organic cosmetics however, provide more guarantees, endocrine disruptors are simply not allowed in the formulation process by the different labels. More detailed information also here. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.

4. Avoid Silicones and mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, etc):

Likewise, Silicones are commonly used in beauty products to create a smooth texture and long-lasting effects. However, they represent a huge toll on the environment, as they are not biodegradable. When selecting hair products, choose those with silicone alternatives such as natural waxes or nourishing oils (jojoba, sesame, argan, olive, coconut etc) sheabutter, or cocoa butter.These ingredients provide hydration and a comfortable wear without the negative side effects. Again, silicones and mineral oil derived ingredients are not allowed in certified organic cosmetics. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.

2. Stay Away from PFAS (Perfluoroalkyl Substances):

PFAS are a group of chemicals used in many industries, including cosmetics. They have been linked to adverse health effects and are extremely persistent in the environment. This is a tremendous environmental concern, which of course concerns many other industries. Check the ingredient list for PFAS-related compounds like PTFE or perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and educate yourself on the subject as well.

5. Be Mindful of certain synthetic Preservatives:

Preservatives are essential to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend the shelf life of cosmetics. However, some synthetic preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol have been linked to skin irritations and allergies and other more serious health concerns. Others fall into the category of endocrine disruptors (some parabens (but not all parabens), triclosan, etc).

2. Embrace Organic (certified!) Cosmetics:

Organic cosmetics have gained immense popularity in recent years for their commitment to using natural and pure ingredients. Choose « certified organic »- hair products – and brands which have certification seals from respected organic regulatory bodies. These products are formulated without controversial ingredients and provide a gentle yet efficient alternative for keeping your hair healthy and lustrous.

Conclusion:

To sum up, by following these tips, you can effectively avoid, controversial ingredients like endocrine disruptors, PFAS, pollutants, silicones, and other questionable preservatives commonly found in hair products and beauty products in general. Your hair deserves the very best care, free from any controversial ingredients that could compromise its health and radiance. By opting for certified organic cosmetics, creating homemade hair masks (there are numerous recipes on the internet), and checking your product’s ingredient list, you’re well on your way to maintaining a luscious, chemical-free mane. So, next time you’re on the hunt for hair products, like the one from Amika, remember the top tips we’ve covered here and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with your decision to prioritize your hair’s long-term health and beauty.

You can find more products test on the website

CAIA OWE YOU NOTHING Lipstick -19€

CAIA Lipstick under the Spotlight

When it comes to enhancing our beauty, lipstick is a classic go-to for most of us. However, have you ever stopped to consider the potentially harmful ingredients lurking in your favorite shade?  From silicones to PFAS, parabens, titanium dioxide to phenoxyethanol, endocrine disruptors… (and many other potentially toxic, polluting and controversial ingredients….), the beauty industry has seen its fair share of controversial substances.  In this blog post, we take a closer look at one of CAIA’s makeup product -a Stockholm-based D2C beauty company founded by influencers- currently trending.

Let’s take a closer look at Caia’s product philosophy in general :

PRODUCT PHILOSOPHY

« We believe beauty products should be of top quality at accessible prices. The products should be easy for everyone to use and suit most skin types and skin tones. We offer top quality formulations based on carefully selected ingredients. We also have a long list of ingredients we avoid. All products are produced by the biggest well renowned factories in France, Italy and Korea. Our skincare has been developed together with toxicologists, dermatologists and biologists. « 

And if we were to take a closer look at one of Caia’s products; how does the « top quality formulation » of  a lipstick look like, for example ?

What could be Caia’s definition of « carefully selected ingredients » ? First of all, here are the product benefits, – as presented on Caia’s website *:

DESCRIPTION

Purely pigmented lipstick with extreme matte finish. It provides consistency, emollience and water resistance without a draggy application. The lipstick contains Passion Fruit seed oil which offers nourishing and repairing properties. Looks matte, feels smooth. Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by taking a closer look at the INCI list (the list of ingredients) of Caia’s « Owe You Nothing » Lipstick 

Ingredients/ INCI*:

CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE; POLYETHYLENE, OCTYLDODECANOL, KAOLIN, SILICA, HYDROGENATED STYRENE/METHYL STYRENE/INDENE COPOLYMER, SYNTHETIC WAX, DICALCIUM PHOSPHATE, C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER ,CETYL DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-t-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, MICA, LAURETH-4, MAY CONTAIN/(+/-): TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) IRON OXIDES (CI 77492) RED 6 (CI 15850) RED 7 LAKE (CI 15850) RED 28 LAKE (CI 45410) BLUE 1 LAKE (CI 42090) YELLOW 5 LAKE (CI 19140) YELLOW 6 LAKE (CI 15985)

Ingredient analysis :

As always, it is the first 5-10 ingredients that make up the majority of the product’s overall « profile ». And this basic profile includes already a large number of controversial ingredients, silicone-based ingredients (polluting), synthetic polymers (microplastic), etc. A « product base » which is almost entirely based on synthetic ingredients some of which are very controversial. And the promised «Passion Fruit seed oil»  (in latin/INCI terms = PASSIFLORA EDULIS SEED OIL) went missing along the way. Nowhere to be found.

A long list of controversial substances have also slipped into the formula of Caia’s « Owe You Nothing » Lipstick

• POLYETHYLENE environmental concern, pollutant (microplastics)
• HYDROGENATED STYRENE/METHYL STYRENE/INDENE COPOLYMER, a film former. derived from petrochemical ingredients – pollutant.
• An entire list of Silicones : DIMETHICONE/CETYL DIMETHICONE/C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER,  problematic substances for the environnement (not very biodegradable), pollutants
• TITANIUM DIOXIDE, colorant, problematic in this kind of product (as it will be partially ingested), check out the article for more detailed information
• Film-forming agents, like HYDROGENATED STYRENE/METHYL STYRENE/INDENE COPOLYMER problematic for the environment, pollutants
• a list of controversial synthetic dyes RED 7 LAKE (CI 15850)  YELLOW 5 LAKE (CI 19140) YELLOW 6 LAKE (CI 15985),some azo dyes are classified as carcinogens, which is why azo dyes are restricted in the EU
• PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-t-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, synthetic antioxydant.

Conclusion for the analysis of Caia’s « Owe You Nothing » Lipstick

A formulation that is far, far from the claim of « carefully selected ingredients » ….The product is made of a list of controversial and polluting ingredients, problematic for the environment (silicones, acrylates, microplastics, mineral oil derivatives etc) and potentially harmful and toxic substances (azo dyes , titanium dioxyde, not recommended in this type of product)- which clashes with the claim of carefully selected ingredients.

And the promised « Passion Fruit seed oil » is just a marketing slogan, it doesn’t show anywhere on the ingredient list.

Title: 5 Clever Tips for Selecting Toxic-Free Lipsticks:

Avoiding Endocrine Disruptors, PFAS, and other toxic, harmful, or polluting ingredients

Lipsticks have always been a go-to makeup item for many individuals, a powerful tool to help us express ourselves. However,  a lot of traditional lipsticks still contain numerous toxic ingredients that can harm both your health and the environment.

Here are a few tips to ensure you choose toxic-free lipsticks that are free from endocrine disruptors, PFAS, pollutants, silicones, controversial synthetic preservatives and any other harmful components.

1. Educate Yourself on Endocrine Disruptors:

Endocrine disruptors are harmful chemicals present in various beauty products. These chemicals can interfere with your hormonal balance and potentially lead to serious health issues. It is never enough to choose lipsticks labeled as « paraben-free » as the products can still contain other endocrine disruptors or harmful ingredients. Certified organic cosmetics however, provide more guarantees, endocrine disruptors are simply not allowed in the formulation process by the different labels. More detailed information also here. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.

2. Stay Away from PFAS (Perfluoroalkyl Substances):

PFAS are a group of chemicals used in many industries, including cosmetics. They have been linked to adverse health effects and are extremely persistent in the environment. This is a tremendous environmental concern, which of course concerns many other industries. Check the ingredient list for PFAS-related compounds like PTFE or perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and educate yourself on the subject as well.

4. Avoid Silicones an mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, etc):

Silicones are commonly used in beauty products to create a smooth texture and long-lasting effects. However, they represent a huge toll on the environment, as they are not biodegradable. When selecting lipsticks, choose those with silicone alternatives such as natural waxes or nourishing oils like jojoba, shea, or cocoa butter. These ingredients provide hydration and a comfortable wear without the negative side effects. Again, silicones and mineral oil derived ingredients are not allowed in certified organic cosmetics. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.

5. Be Mindful of certain synthetic Preservatives:

Preservatives are essential to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend the shelf life of cosmetics. However, some synthetic preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol have been linked to skin irritations and allergies and other more serious health concerns. Others fall into the category of endocrine disruptors (some parabens, triclosan, etc). There are other ways of formulating beauty products, and some pioneers in the organic cosmetics fields like Logocos (brands Logona, Santé)  or Dermatherm  have developed an expertise in this field over the last decades.

Conclusion:

Choosing toxic-free lipsticks should be a priority for anyone concerned about their health and the planet. By following these tips, you can effectively avoid endocrine disruptors, PFAS, pollutants, silicones, and controversial preservatives commonly found in traditional lipsticks. Embrace the power of knowledge and make informed choices to adorn your lips with clean and gorgeous colors, without compromising on your well-being.

L’Oréal Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream, SPF30 –50 ml €

No need to present the L’Oréal group, the biggest multinational in the cosmetics market, a leader both in France and at international level. And like all large groups, the l’Oréal group now displays its « sustainable » commitments « for the future » with huge ladles of marketing campaigns … that certainly represent exorbitant budgets. There is no need to repeat their commitments in terms of sustainability here, they all seem more than « perfect ».And if we were to take a closer look at one of L’Oréal’s products, what about the formulation of the cosmetic products presents on the market?

L’Oréal Age Perfect under the spotlight

L’Oréal Age Perfect Day Cream product benefits, – as presented on the brand’s website (UK version)*:

DESCRIPTION

« Discover millions of new skin cells with this revitalising SPF day cream that promotes cell renewal. Formulated with a powerful antioxidant recovery complex, the cream enhances radiance leaving skin feeling toned with a luminous looking glow.
BENEFITS
Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream SPF30 is formulated with:

Antioxidant Recovery Complex:

•  Neohesperidin: powerful antioxidant known to support cell regeneration
•  Vitamin E: antioxidant known to boosts skins natural defence against free radicals like pollution
• SPF30: Protects skin against the harmful effects of UV rays

The product claims

As is often the case in the cosmetics sector, L’Oréal highlights two active ingredients (black truffle and black tea kombucha) which are supposed to account for the global effectiveness of the formula: « two active ingredients rich in polyphenols and vitamin B (…) to accelerate cell regeneration and prolong the vitality of the skin. » (as specified on the french version of l’Oréal’s website. This is a very common marketing technique, not only in the conventional cosmetics sector by the way*. And the fundamental aspect of the base of the formula, the so-called « excipient », is very often forgotten, and is of paramount importance.According to K.P. Witten, Head of Development at Beiersdorf, « 80% of the desired performance can be achieved with a quality excipient. The active ingredients, however extraordinary, only account for the remaining 20%.

* (However, there is one important difference: the quality of the excipient is generally much better in certified natural and organic cosmetics, as it is based entirely vegetable oils and waxes, as mineral oil/silicone components are simply not allowed)

More information can be found in the video on this topic (in french, however).

Let’s have a closer look at L’Oréal Age Perfect ingredients list

If we get back to the example of L’Oréal’s day cream, it’s the truffle extract and black tea that are highlighted as main ingredients with exceptional qualities. But when we take a closer look at the INCI list, we see that these components are found in 17th and 22nd position; in very small quantities and therefore with extremely limited benefits.The main ingredients are always to be found at the top of the list, which makes it easy to identify those present in the highest concentration. Finally, everything at the very end of the list is present in extremely small quantities.On the other hand, -once again- it is interesting to look more closely at the whole formulation of the product and to compare it with the brand’s product description.So if we take a closer look water is in first position, closely followed by glycerin and somewhere in the middle the two highlighted active ingredients. What would be interesting now would be to know what lies in between these two ingredients….

Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by taking a closer look at the list of ingredients, the INCI list of L’Oréal’s Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream

Ingredients/ INCI*: AQUA / WATER • GLYCERIN • HOMOSALATE • OCTOCRYLENE • ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE • ALCOHOL DENAT. • BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE • HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE • BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE • DIMETHICONE • CETEARYL ALCOHOL • PEG-100 STEARATE • PEG-20 • PETROLATUM • CETYL ALCOHOL • TUBER AESTIVUM EXTRACT • BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER • C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN • SACCHAROMYCES/XYLINUM/BLACK TEA FERMENT • GLYCERYL STEARATE • TUBER MELANOSPORUM EXTRACT • DIMETHICONOL • DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE • CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE • NEOHESPERIDIN DIHYDROCHALCONE • SODIUM CITRATE • SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE • SODIUM HYALURONATE • SODIUM HYDROXIDE • CYCLODEXTRIN • ADENOSINE • VIGNA ACONITIFOLIA SEED EXTRACT • MANNITOL • DISODIUM EDTA • DISODIUM SUCCINATE • PROPYLENE GLYCOL • HYDROLYZED CICER SEED EXTRACT • HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE • CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID • CITRIC ACID • LAURETH-7 • XANTHAN GUM • BIOTIN • FAEX EXTRACT / YEAST EXTRACT • POLYACRYLAMIDE • ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER • OCTYLDODECANOL • BHT • TOCOPHEROL • TOCOPHERYL ACETATE • POTASSIUM SORBATE • SODIUM BENZOATE • SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE • SODIUM SALICYLATE • PHENOXYETHANOL • CI 14700 / RED 4 • CI 19140 / YELLOW 5 • LINALOOL • GERANIOL • ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE • LIMONENE • HYDROXYCITRONELLAL • CITRONELLOL • HEXYL CINNAMAL • BENZYL ALCOHOL • BENZYL SALICYLATE • PARFUM / FRAGRANCE

Ingredient analysis

Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

As always, it is the first 5-10 ingredients that make up the majority of the product’s overall « profile ».

Following water and glycerin, we go straight to the « problematic synthetic components » list with a host of controversial sunscreens and different ingredients derived from petrochemicals (mineral oils) or silicones. A « product base » that is almost entirely based on synthetic ingredients (except the glycerine), some of which are highly controversial.

A long list of controversial substances are in L’Oréal’s Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream:

• HOMOSALATE a chemical UV filter/sunscreen,  suspected endocrine disruptor*.
• OCTOCRYLENE a chemical UV filter/sunscreen, suspected endocrine disruptor*.
• ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (Octisalate) a chemical UV filter/sunscreen, suspected endocrine disruptor*.
• Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) a chemical UV filter/sunscreen, a suspected endocrine disruptor
• Several Silicones : DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONOL environmentally problematic substances (not very biodegradable), pollutants
• Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, derived from mineral oil, problematic for the environment
• A series of PEGs (@BIS-PEG-18 METHYLETHER DIMETHYL SILANE, PEG-100 STEARATE – PEG-20), these are ethoxylated materials. These are obtained from highly reactive and toxic gases, and are the result of a chemical process that requires the strictest safety measures. PEGs can also make the skin’s barrier more permeable to other substances and are not very biodegradable and therefore also polluting.
• Phenoxyethanol, a controversial synthetic preservative, with proven toxic potential (harmful to the liver, in particular)
• Film-forming agents, like Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer problematic for the environment, pollutants
• The « Fragrance »/ Perfume listed in the INCI list can also sometimes be a problem: since it is a non-certified product (in natural and organic cosmetics), there is a good chance that it is a synthetic fragrance, which very often also contains phthalates, also classified as endocrine disruptors. To avoid the presence of phthalates, the only certainty would be to opt for a certified product, as synthetic perfumes are simply not authorised by the various specifications in natural and organic cosmetics.

Verdict for the analysis of L’Oréal Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream:

A formulation that is far, far from being… flawless. A very unspectacular base/excipient (mainly glycerin and silicones), surrounded by very problematic and controversial ingredients (problematic synthetic preservatives, synthetic UV filters/sunscreens, endocrine disruptors, silicones, etc…)

No less than 5 very problematic synthetic sunscreens, for a simple day cream… what else? On top of that, there is a whole list of controversial and polluting ingredients, problematic for the environment (silicones, acrylates, Peg, mineral oil derivatives etc) – which is just perfect for consolidating  and putting into action these « sustainable commitments for the future »…only kidding.

It is always worth taking a closer look at the formulation of certain randomly chosen products. Very often we come to the conclusion that the commitments touted by multi-nationals like l’Oréal are still far from being reflected in reality.Why then invest huge sums in advertising this new vision of « For the Future » when the product formulation of a randomly choses product… just stands for the absolute opposite?

Garnier Ambre Solaire, cosmetic truth of the month

GARNIER

Ambre Solaire Kids Water Resistant

Sun Cream Spray SPF50+

12,90 €

Garnier is one of those ancient, traditional brands, which are widely available in supermarkets or pharmacies. The brand (as well as Garnier’s various other sub-brands) belongs to the L’Oréal group. As is the case with all multi-nationals in the cosmetics industry, brands are now almost all duty-bound to re-invent themselves with more sustainable versions, whether by conviction or simple opportunistic marketing.  The FRENCH homepage of Garnier’s website details this concept with a new slogan « towards even more sustainable beauty”:

« Discover the next chapter in our commitment to Green Beauty, an educational campaign to share expert knowledge and practical tips for more sustainable consumption. This campaign is the first step in a new commitment by the brand to encourage 250 million people to live more responsibly by 2025 (…). Garnier’s new commitment is part of a series of ambitious goals to reduce the brand’s environmental impact at all stages of its value chain. Garnier is determined to continue its bold sustainable transformation and is committed to sharing expert knowledge and practical advice with millions of consumers to empower them to take action.”

A little further down on the “Our Heritage” page (still on the French version of the website), Garnier claims that its Ultra Gentle shampoos are “plant-based” and that the Olia colour is “based on the power of vegetal oil”. They forget to mention the rest of the less glamorous formulation which includes a slew of controversial chemical ingredients. « The first range of ultra-soft plant-based shampoos designed for all hair types. The first four formulas are made with wheat germ, lime leaf, chamomile and saw palmetto » (…) OLIA, THE POWER OF OIL .Based on the power of oil, Olia offers exceptional colour and improved hair quality: the hair is three times shinier than before colouring with Olia. And all this without ammonia. »

So to sum up: Garnier, which until now has not been noted for its commitment to ecology, or for its irreproachable formulations, whether in terms of ecology or in terms of its formulations based on extremely controversial ingredients, is about to explain to us how to « live more responsibly ». Sounds like a real programme. We don’t quite yet understand the concept of “even more sustainable » beauty, and we are still not quite sure if the Garnier group and its various brands (Fructis, Ultra Doux, Olia, Belle Color etc.) has had anything to do with sustainable beauty since its creation. And to check whether these proudly stated commitments are reflected in the formulation of their products, all you have to do is take a random product, a sun spray for children for example, and take a closer look at the composition.

On the brand page* (UK page) presenting GARNIER Ambre Solaire Sunscreen Spray, you can read a relatively brief description:

Our Ambre Solaire Kids Sensitive Advanced Sun Lotion Spray SPF50+ immediately protects your kids from both short and long-term sun-induced damage. Our innovative Netlock TechnologyTM and maximum 5 Star UVA protection has been especially developed for kids’ sensitive and sun intolerant skin and is hypoallergenic. The kind-to-skin formula can be used on body and face. Our formula conforms 100% to European recommendations for protection against the harmful effects of UVA and UVB rays.

credit : Pichara Bann_Unsplash

Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by taking a closer look at the list of ingredients, on the INCI list of GARNIER Ambre Solaire Spray:

Ingredients analysis:

As always, it is the first 5-8 ingredients that constitute the majority of the product’s « profile ». And among these first ingredients there is already an entire list of chemical UV filters, a real cocktail of 6 synthetic UV filters over the whole formula, (some of which are considered really problematic, notably endocrine disruptors), some secondary substances and controversial and/or polluting components. The tone of the formulation is set.  We are not quite sure just how much this approach is really about « more sustainable beauty ».

Some controversial substances have crept into the formula:

• ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (Octisalate), synthetic UV filter (chemical), suspected endocrine disruptor
• BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, synthetic UV filter (chemical), suspected endocrine disruptor
• ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE synthetic UV filter (chemical), environmental problem (pollutant)
• DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE synthetic UV filter (chemical), environmental concern (pollutant)
• TRIETHANOLAMINE an ingredient that is used either as a buffer substance, emulsifier or surfactant, which can form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic
• SODIUM POLYACRYLATES, gelling agent, absorbent, environmental problem
• Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, chelating agent (see EDTA), derived from petrochemical components, pollutant
• ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER environmental problem (microplastic)

Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

The formulation also contains suspected endocrine disruptors, which is a real problem, especially in a product intended for children.Pregnant women and children are particularly vulnerable to the effects of endocrine disruptors. Of course, cosmetic products are not the only sources of endocrine disruption, but they are part of it, and overexposure to multiple sources of endocrine disruptors on a daily basis is really problematic.

More information about endocrine disruptors (in French, soon to be available in English)

Verdict:

A formula that will certainly protect against UV rays, but which contains a whole series of chemical UV filters, some of which are very controversial (suspected endocrine disruptors). The multiplication of problematic and controversial ingredients also refers to the cocktail effect: chemical substances that, taken on their own, are harmless, but which can become harmful when mixed together.  In addition are a few polluting ingredients to help improve the future of our children, the state of the planet and pollute the oceans…I’m joking, well not entirely. A product for children that does not really respect the environment will not respect its future, it’s as simple as that…. So we are quite far from the concept of « even more sustainable beauty ».

All too often, we rely solely on the protection provided by sun creams (which only provide partial protection), without taking into account the context (phototype/place of exposure/time/background, etc.).

The following article also provides more explanations on this subject. (in French, soon to be available in English)

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We are not the only ones to note that the formulations of sunscreen products are still often problematic.

The June 2020 edition of the German consumer magazine Ökotest, for example, also contained a product test on « sun creams for children ».

The test included a total of 21 products, both « conventional » and certified organic cosmetic brands. The products, analysed on the basis of their formulations, were downgraded because of the following ingredients:                                                                                                   

☀︎  Synthetic UV filters, such as Octorylene and Homosalate, suspected endocrine disruptors

☀︎ Polluting ingredients based on silicones or acrylates

☀︎ Lack of declaration of nanoparticles

☀︎ PEGs, pollutant ingredients, which can make the skin more permeable to other substances

☀︎ Mineral oil-based ingredients (paraffin type) environmental problem

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You can find similar articles  and product tests on the website

FILORGA
OPTIM-EYES LOTION
Eye Serum Makeup Remover
110 ml,  24,90 €

Filorga presents itself as the “the medi-cosmetic revolution” (=THE MEDI-COSMETIQUE REVOLUTION) highlighting “high performance anti-aging solutions (hyaluronic acid injections, anti-aging mesotherapy, peelings) used by leading aesthetic medical practitioners and surgeons in over 60 countries.” Filorga, therefore considers itself to be a brand directly “inspired by aesthetic medicine (….) with innovative preparations and high-tech agents developed in its Laboratory.”

So, by interpreting the marketing message and schematizing it slightly, we could imagine that Filorga possesses “formula secrets” which other bands don’t have and therefore their cosmetic treatments could be more “effective”, closer to the results obtained by cosmetic surgery, all this, of course, without having to pass by the operating theatre.  Great! It will save us some money!

So what about if we take a look behind the scenes to see which components Filorga works with?

Here is the manufacturer’s presentation of the product, Filorga Optim Eyes Serum*:

EYE CONTOUR³

DARK CIRCLES – PUFFINESS – WRINKLES

TRIPLE ACTION EYE CARE TO REDUCE DARK CIRCLES, UNDER-EYE BAGS AND WRINKLES IN A SINGLE STEP.

/ Dark circles: A (matrikines + chrysin) complex fosters the elimination of pigmented residue to reduce the colour of dark circles./ Puffiness: Powerful peptides act on microcirculation to decrease the volume of under-eye bags.Wrinkles: A trio of smoothing active ingredients containing hesperidin to remove creases from the eye area. Fresh, melting and moisturizing texture – can be refrigerated. 15ml. Filorga’s product is therefore a make-up remover that acts both as a serum for the eyes, “strengthening the eyelashes” and “revitalising the eyes”, thanks, most especially to the famous “oleo-clean” complex… A complete programme…

Let’s take a moment to check the composition of the product by analysing the list of components, in the INCI list more closely:

Ingredients/ INCI:

AQUA (WATER,), PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL), DIMETHICONE, ISOHEXADECANE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES,BUTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CAPPARIS SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT, OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE, PERFUME (FRAGRANCE), STYRENE/VP COPOLYMER, DISODIUM EDTA, ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-5, DEXTRAN, SORBIC ACID, ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3, TRIFOLIUM PRATENSE (CLOVER) FLOWER EXTRACT, CI60725 (VIOLET 2), CI61565 (GREEN 6)

Component analysis:

Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

As always, it is the first 8-10 components that make up the majority of the product’s “profile”. The first component being present in the highest quantity with the following components presented in a descending order.

And the beginning of the list is composed of a series of components derived from petro chemistry (mineral oils) and silicones, Paraffinum Liquidum (2nd), Dimethicone (3rd), (silicone), Isohexadecane (4th) etc. These are the more “basic” moisturizing components, not very interesting in terms of beauty treatment properties, – apart from their moisturising powers (and their cost, which is much lower than vegetable oils, for example).To this are added some plant extracts and active beauty treatment ingredients. But in the end, the famous “oleo-clean complex” announced by Filorga, is far from being the basic foundation of the formulation, which consists of water, followed by a majority of components from petro chemistry. 

Some controversial substances have slipped into the formula of Filorga’s make-up remover:

• DIMETHICONE, part of the silicones, an environmentally problematic substance (non-biodegradable), polluting.
• Components based on mineral oils  Paraffinum Liquidum, Isohexadecane, etc.
• PEG-8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES. Part of the ethoxylated substances. Obtained from extremely reactive and toxic gases resulting from a chemical process which imposes the most stringent of safety measures. PEGs are also likely to make the skin barrier more permeable to other substances and are not very biodegradable, therefore polluting.
• The complexing agent Disodium EDTA, which is not very biodegradable and polluting.
• There is a question mark regarding the “Perfume”, as it is impossible to ascertain, with the simple INCI designation, whether these are natural fragrances (based on essential oils/fragrances) or conventional fragrances which may contain very controversial substances: phthalates or musk compounds, Lilial, etc.

Regarding Mineral oils

The German BFR recently published a reassuring conclusion regarding the application on the skin of cosmetic products based on mineral oils which do not pose health problems. This does not remove the issue of the occlusive effect in high concentration, nor the “inert” quality of the raw material, making it less interesting than mineral oils, or the environmental problem.

Verdict:

So this  famous “Two-phase make-up remover”: enriched with oleo-clean complex” highly praised by Filorga, is in fact an “ultra-classic formulation”, almost dated, whose basic components are derived from mineral oils or silicones, as well as other components which are problematic for the environment. All this distributed below in the list of the few interesting beauty care substances and plant extracts. Perhaps the “innovative formulas and high-tech ingredients” promoted by the brand are all hidden in other Filorga products?  A simple look at the formulations of creams or sunscreens on the site confirms the presence of many other controversial components (PHENOXYETHANOL, CHLORPHENESIN, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, HOMOSALATE, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BHT, etc., etc.…)“Innovative formulas” or perhaps not as innovative as all that (see product formulation) … boosted by controversial components… Thanks, we’ll come by another time.And we’ll also try to find other alternatives to cosmetic surgery, by the way.

As seen in other articles, there is often a gap between the product’s marketing claims… and the reality shown in the ingredient’s list.

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Note; this article is from 2020

Product formulations can change, even an entire product line can change from year to year and the brand can choose to remove or add certain ingredients or even entirely remove products, for example. No consumer site or magazine constantly updates these changes, it would be a gigantic job, to do continuously. And the articles are not removed at the simple request of the brands who would explain that the formulas have changed since the test was published. The product test reflects « the exact image of the moment »,  and the tests are clearly dated.

BRUT
Antiperspirant
Original
Stick
50 ml, 3€

Some cosmetic products have no detailled product presentation, as is the case with BRUT Antiperspirant deodorant, where the manufacturer, Unilever, simply presents the composition of the product on its website. And if we continue along the lines of the brand’s advertising strategy, « Brut » is a raw, no frills, product which cuts to the chase. It’s a deodorant. It’s for guys. And that’s it.

So let’s get down to business: The list of components, BRUT Antiperspirant :

Ingredients/ INCI : Cyclomethicone, Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY, PPG-14 Butyl Ether, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Talc, PEG-8 distearate, Parfum, BHT, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool

Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

And more information concerning fragrances like Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, etc  can be found on the website, too.

Component Analysis BRUT Antiperspirant :

The formula starts off powerfully with Cyclopentasiloxane in first position, a silicone based substance, suspected of being an endocrine disruptor. Next is an aluminium salt, Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY, which is particularly problematic.

What’s the problem with aluminium salts in cosmetics?

Aluminum salts are reactive components, partially soluble, that can penetrate the body’s tissues. For some time now aluminium salts have been singled out in various studies, but the two most recent studies have once again revived the debate on the connection between aluminium salts in deodorants and the development of cancer. A 2016 Swiss study* « International Journal of Cancer”, Geneva, considered the implications of aluminium in the development of breast cancer. The study, by André-Pascal Sappino and Stefano Mandriota showed that deodorants containing aluminium salts cause tumours in guinea pigs.

And another study carried out last summer, Innsbruck Austria (July, 2017)*, published in EBioMedicine, particularly linked certain aluminium salts to the risk of developing breast cancer. The findings of this study: For those who, from an early age, have been using an antiperspirant containing aluminium salts several times a day on shaved underarms, the risk of developing breast cancer is doubled. As is often the case, the authorities’ response ( ANSES in France)* which is intended to reassure, proposes concentration restrictions (0.6%) which are not always respected.

« The data analysis proposed a restriction of aluminium concentration to 0.6% in antiperspirant or deodorant products.It should be noted that this restriction doesn’t apply to damaged skin being exposed to it, such as after shaving or micro cuts.Therefore, the Afssaps (French Health Products Safety Agency) recommends not to use antiperspirants containing aluminium on damaged skin.”

But the restriction recommendation remains only a suggestion.

According to information from the BfR* (German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment) « amounts of 20% are quite common in antiperspirants ». This would correspond to an aluminium content of about 5%.  The German Federation of Cosmetics and Cleaning Products Professionals’ newsletter (Industrieverbandes Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. (IKW) reports concentrations of aluminium hydrochlorides of up to 30%, in antiperspirant creams for example. (IKW, 2012).

And there are other issues:

Aluminium salts block the sweat glands

Aluminum hydrochlorides and sulphates used in many conventional deodorants prevent sweat from beading on the surface of the skin, so they clog pores. This can lead to itching and skin irritation.

A distinction must be made with regard to aluminium-based components:

However, not all components that are called, or whose names begin, in INCI terms with « Aluminum » or « Alumina », are « aluminium salts ».

It is important to distinguish between aluminium hydrochlorides* and aluminium oxides, hydroxides and silicates** (which are also part of the composition of clays, for example, see « bauxite » or « corundum », naturally present in the earth).

*Aluminium chlorohydrates (among others)

• Aliminium Chloride
• Aluminium Chlorhydrate
• Aluminium Chlorhydrex
• Aluminium Chlorhydrex PG
• Aluminium Distearate
• Aluminium Sesquichlorohydrate
• Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinnate
• Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY

**Aluminium oxides/Hydroxides (among others)

+ Alumina (= aluminiumhydroxyde)

+ Aluminium/Magnesium Hyroxide Stearate

+ Aluminium Starch Otenylsuccinate

+ Aluminium Silicate

Aluminium oxides, silicates and hydroxides are chemically inert aluminas, i.e. they are not chemically reactive as they stand.

Aluminum oxides and hydroxides do not release aluminum, but this may be the case with aluminum hydrochlorides, which are considered soluble.

(By the way, avoid cooking food in foil with lemon... it is a sure way to increase aluminium content in food and therefore to absorb it)

And now back to our product, the BRUT Antiperspirant stick :

Analysis of components BRUT Antiperspirant :

 Controversial substances which have crept into the formula:

* Cyclopentasiloxane in first position. A silicone based substance, suspected to be an endocrine disruptor.

• Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY, which is part of the aluminium salts, see issue explained above, restrictions of use (20%) in 2nd position, therefore present in large quantities.
• PEGs in 3rd and 7th position, PPG-14 Butyl Ether/PEG-8 distearate, are ethoxylated substances. Obtained from extremely reactive and toxic gases, resulting from a chemical process which demands the most stringent safety measures. PEGs are also likely to make the skin barrier more permeable to other substances and are not very biodegradable, therefore polluting.
•  BHT , studied as an endocrine disruptor and classified as a real problem (possibly carcinogenic) in some countries.

Conclusion BRUT Antiperspirant :

A completely « brute rough and ready » imitation which doesn’t even pretend…. An « impressive amalgam » of controversial and problematic components, not very commendable.

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Note; this article is from 2019

Product compositions can change, even an entire product line can change from year to year and choose to remove or add certain ingredients or even remove products, for example. No consumer site or magazine constantly updates these changes, it would be a gigantic job, to do continuously. And the articles are not removed at the simple request of the manufacturers who would explain that the formulas have changed since the test was published. On the other hand, the product test reflects « the exact image of the moment », the tests are clearly dated.

NUXE
Body
Fondant Shower Gel
With almond and orange flower petals
Fine soap-free foam
400 ml , 8,80 €

NUXE is one of the brands which offers both certified organic ranges (the “Nuxe Organic Beauty” range) and products which are not certified. Sometimes this can cause confusion to customers who tend to believe that the entire brand is formulated in the same way. An analysis of the component list can be useful for products which are not certified.  The Fondant Shower gel selected here is not part of the certified range.

Here is the description of the product on the brand’s website:

“With almond and orange flower petals, this soap free Fondant Shower Gel gently cleanses the skin. An essential part of your daily routine, you’ll love its smooth foam and delicate fragrance.Ingredients of natural origin almond and orange flower petals … Paraben-free.”Contains at least 96 % of natural origin ingredients

Ingredients/ INCI: AQUA/WATER, SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE, GLYCERINE, CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE, ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, PHENOXYETHANOL, GLUCONOLACTONE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE, LAURYL GLUCOSIDE, SODIUM BENZOATE, CITRIC ACID, TETRASODIUM EDTA, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE CARBOXYLATE, CALCIUM GLUCONATE, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) FLOWER EXTRACT, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) FLOWER EXTRACT, TROPOLONE [N2102/A].

Component analysis:

Ingredient’s list analyzed with the website’s INCI Search tool

As always, it is the first 5-8 components that make up the majority of the product’s “profile”. 

Generally speaking, a shampoo is made up of about 70% water, (or more). Then come washing bases (about 20%) and the rest, ancillary components (additives, plant extracts, etc.).As far as shampoos, (or even shower gels, for example), are concerned, what is essential is the choice of washing bases (also known as surfactants) which can either be very gentle, well tolerated by the skin, or irritating and/or problematic for the environment. The formulation here consists of a mixture of a irritating surfactant Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (2nd position), present in large quantities, combined and softened by softer surfactants such as Caprylyl/Capryl Glucosideine (4th) and Sodium Cocoamphoacetate and Lauryl Glucoside much lower.

We are still quite far from a « washing base of vegetal origin ».

The advantage of this type of formulation for manufacturers is that the main surfactant, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, considered to be the most irritating surfactant, is also among the cheapest of the surfactants. The most gentle, skin-friendly sugar-based washing bases, « acylglutamates », are also the most expensive. This is why there are very few products formulated exclusively with these very gentle washing bases.

But other problematic and controversial substances have also crept into the formula:

• Phenoxyethanol,  a controversial synthetic preservative, with a proven toxic potential (harmful to the liver, in particular).
• In addition to environmentally problematic raw materials, the film-forming agent Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkylacrylate Crosspolymer, for ex.
• and Tetrasodium EDTA, polluting substances.

One might think that cosmetic components classified as « pollutants » would generally be « less problematic » than the controversial components classified as toxic to health. Except that everything is connected…

For example, plastic micro beads* that pollute lakes and oceans are ingested by fish. The fish that, later on, we eat.

This video shows a very graphic description of this:

• In France, the marketing of products containing plastic microbeads in rinsed cosmetics, products that are rinsed with water, have been banned as of 1 January 2018.  But the oceans and lakes are already heavily polluted by these substances. Plastic microbeads also come from other everyday products: laundry, clothing, etc.

But where have the « ingredients of natural origin » displayed in the description gone?

The « almond and orange flowers » praised in the product description have been relegated to the last three components in 20th and 21st position, so they are present in infinitesimal quantities.

Verdict:

In the category « problematic and controversial substances » we find: irritating surfactants, a dubious synthetic preservative and polluting components. And the percentage of natural ingredients displayed no longer makes much sense either. Not so great on the whole…. and quite far removed from the « vegetal promises », of the flower petals.

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Note; this article is from 2019

Product formulations can change, even an entire product line can change from year to year and the brand can choose to remove or add certain ingredients or even entirely remove products, for example. No consumer site or magazine constantly updates these changes, it would be a gigantic job, to do continuously.

And the articles are not removed at the simple request of the brands who would explain that the formulas have changed since the test was published. The product test reflects « the exact image of the moment »,  and the tests are clearly dated.