TITANIUM DIOXIDE and cosmetics – Why is it a controversial subject?

TITANIUM DIOXIDE: What exactly is it?

Titanium dioxide is a white inorganic compound used as a white coloring in a variety of products. This component is used in the food industry (colouring), cosmetics (UV filters/pigments) and paint (for example for dye or pigments). In cosmetics, the ingredient is generally used either as a pigment/colorant or as a mineral filter as it is able to reflect, disperse and absorb ultraviolet (UV) rays. 

It is a component that is used in different cosmetic products (conventional OR organic), it is therefore also authorised by the different specifications in natural and organic cosmetics (BDIH, NaTrue, Ecocert, Cosmébio, Soil Association, ICEA, etc.).  The use of titanium dioxide in natural and organic cosmetics is therefore quite widespread, since titanium dioxide is mainly used as a mineral filter in sunscreen products or as pigment in make-up products.

INCI name (as it appears on cosmetics labels): titanium dioxide.

Titanium Dioxide : So what’s all the fuss about?

The distrust of the component comes from the fact that the International Agency for Cancer Research (IARC) has classified titanium dioxide as a potentially carcinogenic component (category 2B).  As always, scientific studies must be interpreted in context and it is important not to generalise or draw hasty conclusions from them. Indeed, the IARC study suggests that titanium dioxide can present a carcinogenic risk in the form of dust inhaled by the lungs (in the air, in suspension). Therefore intensive inhalation of titanium dioxide as « loose powder » can be problematic and requires protective measures, especially for workers who are exposed to fine particles of the component. This problem of massive inhalation of fine particles, which can pose significant health problems, concerns not only this component, but also other components that are inhaled on a large scale in a professional context (coal, mineral wool, graphite, etc.)

Therefore,  should all creams containing this ingredient be systematically avoided?

The application on the skin of creams containing titanium dioxide is not being questioned by this study, it is important to distinguish between the different contexts of use. There are also however certain recommendations for sunscreen products which contain the ingredient (as nanoparticules) in the form of sprays. 

Most titanium dioxides currently used in cosmetics and beauty products have also undergone a surface treatment which consists of coating each oxide grain with layers of organic (polyols, esters, etc.) or inorganic (alumina, silica, etc.) compounds. This phase stabilises it, making it non-volatile and preventing its assimilation by the body.

And what about titanium dioxide as a food additive or in medication?

What is titanium dioxide commonly found in?

Titanium dioxide as a food additive, color additive (name E 171) has been banned since 2020 in France and since 2022 in Europe. Yet it is still present in medications (tablets, etc). What poses a problem is the absorption of this component in nanoparticle form, as it is the case in sweets/candies, chewing-gum or even medication, for example. Ingesting titanium dioxide in nanoparticle form is very problematic in the long term.

Back to cosmetics : should all creams containing this component be systematically avoided?

The application on the skin of creams containing titanium dioxide is not questioned by these studies, it is important to distinguish between the different contexts of use. 

Most titanium dioxides currently used in cosmetics have also undergone a surface treatment which consists of coating each oxide grain with layers of organic (polyols, esters, etc.) or inorganic (alumina, silica, etc.) compounds. This phase stabilises it, making it non-volatile and preventing its assimilation by the body.

With regard to the use of titanium dioxide in general (outside the nano context) in certified natural and organic cosmetics, some labels recommend replacing this component with an alternative in the future, if one exists, as specified by Cosmébio* for example. The label also rightly points out that « if titanium dioxide were to be banned entirely by the …. label, this would also mean that there would be no references at all for make-up and sun protection products ».

 

The Benefits of Titanium Dioxide in sunscreens :

When it comes to sunscreens, titanium dioxide plays a key role in blocking harmful UV radiation, shielding our skin from potential harm. Unlike chemical UV filters, titanium dioxide creates a physical barrier on the skin’s surface, instantly reflecting sunlight away.

This mineral is also considered safe for sensitive skin types, as it is less likely to cause irritation or allergies. It is one of the only alternatives (along with zinc oxide) to synthetic UV filters, most of which are highly controversial, classified as endocrine disruptors, etc. There are also certain recommendations for sunscreen products which contain the component in the form of sprays. (see below)

Are all sunscreen products (organic or conventional) which contain titanium dioxide concerned by this issue?

Let’s recap : the problem is the massive inhalation of titanium dioxide dust, its ingestion as a food additive, its use as nanoparticles in sprays, and not its mere presence in a cream formulation.

What could also possibly be problematic is the presence of this component in the form of nanoparticles in creams, which is not an issue for healthy skin (EU NanoDerm* study), but other studies are looking at the effect that products containing nanoparticles could have on damaged skin, although according to the latest studies it would seem that the protective barrier remains intact and that the substances do not extend beyond the epidermis. To be continued…

But the presence of titanium dioxide in a cosmetic product does not mean « massive inhalation of fine dust », nor does it automatically mean that this component is present in the form of « nanoparticles ». Another more recent study in France ( COSMED APRIL 2021) confirms that titanium dioxide, as such, does not penetrate the skin barrier.

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Mineral or chemical (synthetic) sunscreen filters ?

Just as a reminder: organic (certified) sunscreen products contain only mineral UV filters, conventional products contain mainly chemical synthetic UV filters or sometimes a combination of synthetic filters and mineral filters.

 

As a broad summary concerning titanium dioxide

Alternative Options

If you still have reservations about using titanium dioxide in sunscreen products and still prefer choosing an organic certified sunscreen, there are alternative options available. Look for sunscreens that use zinc oxide as the primary UV filter. Zinc oxide provides similar broad-spectrum protection to titanium dioxide and is widely acknowledged as safe and effective.

To conclude

In the realm of cosmetics and skincare, titanium dioxide plays an important role in protecting our skin from harmful UV radiation in sunscreen products. While concerns regarding health risks exist (especially concerning cosmetic products like lipsticks, toothpaste or lipbalm, always partially ingested), regulated use in creams and sunscreens shows minimal danger.

The decision to embrace or avoid titanium dioxide-containing products ultimately rests on personal preference and any specific concerns one might have. As with any skincare ingredient, knowledge is the key to making the right choices for our skin’s health and well-being.

More articles on cosmetics ingredients

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SOURCES

• EFSA : https://www.efsa.europa.eu/fr/news/titanium-dioxide-e171-no-longer-considered-safe-when-used-food-additive
• ECHA : https://echa.europa.eu/fr/-/titanium-dioxide-proposed-to-be-classified-as-suspected-of-causing-cancer-when-inhaled
• INRA : https://www.inrae.fr/actualites/dioxyde-titane-bouche-premiere-voie-passage-du-e171-sang
• ANSM : https://ansm.sante.fr/uploads/2021/03/11/07fee639ffe2915fd26d91d42a9487d8.pdf

The article dates from 2021, but will be updated regularly based on recent research.