Cosmetic Truth of the Month: FILORGA Optim-Eyes Makeup Remover Serum

January 2020

Under the microscope: FILORGA Optim-Eyes Makeup Remover Serum 

FILORGA

OPTIM-EYES LOTION

Eye Serum Makeup Remover

110 ml,  24,90 €

Filorga presents itself as the “the medi-cosmetic revolution” (=THE MEDI-COSMETIQUE REVOLUTION) highlighting “high performance anti-aging solutions (hyaluronic acid injections, anti-aging mesotherapy, peelings) used by leading aesthetic medical practitioners and surgeons in over 60 countries.”

Filorga, therefore considers itself to be a brand directly “inspired by aesthetic medicine (….) with innovative preparations and high-tech agents developed in its Laboratory.

https://www.filorga.com/wo_en/medicos-revolution

So, by interpreting the marketing message and schematizing it slightly, we could imagine that Filorga possesses “formula secrets” which other bands don’t have and therefore their cosmetic treatments could be more “effective”, closer to the results obtained by cosmetic surgery, all this, of course, without having to pass by the operating theatre.

Great! It will save us some money!

So what about if we take a look behind the scenes to see which components Filorga works with?

Here is the manufacturer’s presentation of the product, Filorga Optim Eyes Serum*:

EYE CONTOUR³

DARK CIRCLES – PUFFINESS – WRINKLES

TRIPLE ACTION EYE CARE TO REDUCE DARK CIRCLES, UNDER-EYE BAGS AND WRINKLES IN A SINGLE STEP.

Read less 

/ Dark circles: A (matrikines + chrysin) complex fosters the elimination of pigmented residue to reduce the colour of dark circles.

/ Puffiness: Powerful peptides act on microcirculation to decrease the volume of under-eye bags.

Wrinkles: A trio of smoothing active ingredients containing hesperidin to remove creases from the eye area.

 

Fresh, melting and moisturizing texture – can be refrigerated. 15ml.

https://www.filorga.com/wo_en/optim-eyes

Filorga’s product is therefore a make-up remover that acts both as a serum for the eyes, “strengthening the eyelashes” and “revitalising the eyes”, thanks, most especially to the famous “oleo-clean” complex… A complete programme…

Let’s take a moment to check the composition of the product by analysing the list of components, in the INCI list more closely:

Ingredients/ INCI:

AQUA (WATER,), PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL), DIMETHICONE, ISOHEXADECANE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES,BUTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CAPPARIS SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT, OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE, PERFUME (FRAGRANCE), STYRENE/VP COPOLYMER, DISODIUM EDTA, ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-5, DEXTRAN, SORBIC ACID, ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3, TRIFOLIUM PRATENSE (CLOVER) FLOWER EXTRACT, CI60725 (VIOLET 2), CI61565 (GREEN 6)

Component analysis:

 

 

As always, it is the first 8-10 components that make up the majority of the product’s “profile”. The first component being present in the highest quantity with the following components presented in a descending order.

And the beginning of the list is composed of a series of components derived from petro chemistry (mineral oils) and silicones, Paraffinum Liquidum (2nd), Dimethicone (3rd), (silicone), Isohexadecane (4th) etc. These are the more “basic” moisturizing components, not very interesting in terms of beauty treatment properties, – apart from their moisturising powers (and their cost, which is much lower than vegetable oils, for example).

To this are added some plant extracts and active beauty treatment ingredients.

But in the end, the famous “oleo-clean complex” announced by Filorga, is far from being the basic foundation of the formulation, which consists of water, followed by a majority of components from petro chemistry. 

Some controversial substances have slipped into the formula of Filorga’s make-up remover:

  • DIMETHICONE, part of the silicones, an environmentally problematic substance (non-biodegradable), polluting.
  • Components based on mineral oils  Paraffinum Liquidum, Isohexadecane, etc.
  • PEG-8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES. Part of the ethoxylated substances. Obtained from extremely reactive and toxic gases resulting from a chemical process which imposes the most stringent of safety measures. PEGs are also likely to make the skin barrier more permeable to other substances and are not very biodegradable, therefore polluting.
  • The complexing agent Disodium EDTA, which is not very biodegradable and polluting.
  • There is a question mark regarding the “Perfume”, as it is impossible to ascertain, with the simple INCI designation, whether these are natural fragrances (based on essential oils/fragrances) or conventional fragrances which may contain very controversial substances: phthalates or musk compounds, Lilial, etc.

Regarding Mineral oils

The BFR recently published a reassuring conclusion regarding the application on the skin of cosmetic products based on mineral oils which do not pose health problems.

This does not remove the issue of the occlusive effect in high concentration, nor the “inert” quality of the raw material, making it less interesting than mineral oils, or the environmental problem.

https://www.bfr.bund.de/cm/349/highly-refined-mineral-oils-in-cosmetics-health-risks-are-not-to-be-expected-according-to-current-knowledge.pdf

Verdict:

So this  famous “Two-phase make-up remover”: enriched with oleo-clean complex” highly praised by Filorga, is in fact an “ultra-classic formulation”, almost dated, whose basic components are derived from mineral oils or silicones, as well as other components which are problematic for the environment. All this distributed below in the list of the few interesting beauty care substances and plant extracts.

Perhaps the “innovative formulas and high-tech ingredients” promoted by the brand are all hidden in other Filorga products?

A simple look at the formulations of creams or sunscreens on the site confirms the presence of many other controversial components (PHENOXYETHANOL, CHLORPHENESIN, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, HOMOSALATE, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BHT, etc., etc.…)

“Innovative formulas” or perhaps not as innovative as all that (see product formulation) … boosted by controversial components… Thanks, we’ll come by another time.

And we’ll also try to find other alternatives to cosmetic surgery, by the way.

 

The same article in french over here : https://blog.laveritesurlescosmetiques.com/la-verite-cosmeto-du-mois-analyse-demaquillant-filorga/

 

As seen in other articles, there is often a gap between the product’s marketing claims… and the reality shown in the ingredient’s list.

 

Cosmetic Truth of the month : NUXE Fondant Shower Gel

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