How to care for your skin during the perimenopause?
Ah the perimenopause….we didn’t expect it… so soon!
Most of the time, as long as it doesn’t affect us, for example, we think of the menopause phase as a sort of “on off” button. One day, you wake up, your period’s over and you find yourself condemned to walk around with a fan because of hot flushes, just like in the movies or in advertising. The reality is a little more nuanced and complex.
The transition phase from perimenopause (the phase before menopause) to menopause can last up to 10 years. In Europe and most of the Western world, the average age is between 45 and 55* (51 on average in France). Do the math: the onset of perimenopause therefore often occurs around the age of 40, and sometimes even earlier.
*(source: INSERM , WHO, etc ).
Perimenopause: an all-encompassing upheaval that affects more than just the skin
During perimenopause, the female body undergoes a series of changes that mark the transition to menopause. At this point, production of the main female hormones, estrogen and progesterone, fluctuates intensely, and then gradually declines over time. And this transition period marks significant hormonal changes that affect skin, hair and general health, as well as mood and mental health.
Additionally, if you’re feeling a little overwhelmed during this period, and health care providers aren’t necessarily providing you with the answers to your (peri)menopausal problems, don’t hesitate to get informed and seek out more detailed information, available on various websites.
- Dr Mary Claire Haver
- Jackie Lynch, nutritionist
- and her excellent podcast Happy Menopause
- The German Website XbyX (also avaible in english), with a lot of previous ressources in the blog part XbyX
- For ressources in French, you can read the equivalent article in French.
Skin Care and Perimenopause : changes in perimenopause
Hormonal fluctuations, particularly the drop in estrogen levels, can lead to drier, thinner skin, making it more prone to irritation and the appearance of wrinkles. Levels of elastin (which provides elasticity), hyaluronic acid (which helps retain and regulate moisture), certain vitamins and keratin also decline with age, which also weakens the skin’s outer protective barrier.
External factors such as environmental pollution, weather conditions or bacteria can thus potentially more easily breach the protective barrier and subsequently damage the skin’s deeper layers. All these factors can further weaken the skin’s outer protective barrier (the famous hydrolipidic film). So it’s essential to adapt your skincare routine to meet your skin’s needs during this transitional phase.
In this article, we’ll guide you in choosing the adequate beauty products and cosmetics to use during the (peri)menopause, and also remind you of some controversial ingredients to avoid in cosmetic products.
Why does the skin become drier during perimenopause?
During perimenopause, the skin undergoes several transformations, mainly due to the decrease in female hormones, which play a key role in the production of collagen, elastin and sebum – essential for maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. Key skin changes include:
- Skin dryness : reduced sebum levels make the skin drier.
- Loss of elasticity : collagen levels fall, which can lead to skin slackening and the appearance of more pronounced wrinkles.
- Increased sensitivity : skin becomes thinner, more fragile and reactive.
- Blemishes: hormonal fluctuations can lead to blemishes, or even a flare-up of acne, as in adolescence.
- Pigmentation spots : hormonal imbalances can lead to the appearance of brown spots
Skin Care & perimenopause : which products ?
Generally speaking, as the skin needs a little more care than before, beauty products rich in humectants and moisturizers, vegetable oils and butters, or glycerine, always make sense.
The importance of the « excipient », the base
Let’s not forget that a few isolated ingredients – however miraculous they may be – cannot guarantee a product’s “absolute efficacy”.
So we’re back to the same basic debate and question: what really determines a product’s efficacy? The answer is quite simple : it’s the base (also known as the “excipient”) of a formula that determines the quality and efficacy of a cosmetic product. In the words of K.P. Witten, former Head of Development at Beiersdorf: “A quality excipient achieves 80% of the desired performance. Active ingredients, no matter how extraordinary, only account for the remaining 20%.” The quality of the care base is therefore paramount. And to assess the overall quality of a product, we of course add to the debate the absence of controversial components, genuinely problematic for health or questionable in environmental terms.
An quality beauty product that « works » = a product adapted to your needs
Another key point is that an “effective” beauty product must also really correspond to the needs of the person and the condition of their skin… at the given time. It may be that a skincare product is suited to your skin at a particular time of year, so it will be “effective” for you at that time. And your skin may have other needs at other times, so it’s time to change skincare products to find what’s most “effective” for you. One basic principle remains valid : listen to your skin’s needs, it’s always talking to you…
Which skincare products to choose for perimenopause? Here are a few tips…
The basic mixture (the excipient), preferably made up of precious plant-based oils or waxes (and not a mixture of mineral oils or silicones), can be complemented by interesting active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or skin care products based on retinol and its derivatives, and antioxidants such as vitamins C and E to protect the surface, moisturize and hydrate deep down.
Which could be the “best products” for perimenopausal skin?
Here’s a selection of products you can add to your beauty routine during perimenopause. But always listen to your skin’s real needs, without getting caught up in brand marketing pitches.
a) Add Serums based on hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule renowned for its ability to attract and retain water in the skin. Naturally present in the human body and in the skin, hyaluronic acid levels tend to decline over the years, leading progressively to skin slackening. An “external” contribution, via cosmetic products, therefore makes perfect sense.
Various studies have shown that using products containing hyaluronic acid can improve skin hydration and suppleness, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid-concentrated serums are therefore particularly suitable for perimenopausal skin, to compensate for moisture loss (or rather, the skin’s ability to maintain its moisture levels).
Product selection (by way of example) :
- Clémence et Vivien : Sérum désaltérant
- AROMAZONE : Sérum concentré d’Acide hyaluronique 3,5%
b) Choose moisturizers rich in essential fatty acids and ceramides
To combat dryness, opt for moisturizers containing essential fatty acids such as omega-3, 6 and 9 (naturally already present in plant oils and waxes) and ceramides. These lipids, already naturally present in the epidermis, help restore the cutaneous barrier, retaining moisture in the skin.
Product selection (by way of example) :
- RINGANA : Fresh Cream Medium
- TYPOLOGY : L72 – Repairing Lip Mask 1% Ceramides + Hyaluronic Acid
c) Testing products based on retinol or its derivatives
Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is one of the most widely studied « anti-aging » ingredients. This substance stimulates collagen production and accelerates cell renewal, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation spots. Several studies highlight retinol’s effectiveness in improving skin elasticity and epidermal density. Retinol is of synthetic origin, and may not be suitable for all skin types. Its use should be gradual, as it can sometimes irritate sensitive skin, causing sensations of irritation or even accentuating cutaneous dryness. It is also photo-sensitizing, which can cause brown spots on exposure to the sun.
What about alternatives to retinol?
Often used in natural and organic cosmetics, Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient generally extracted from the seeds of a herbaceous plant: Psoralea corylifolia . This 100% natural active ingredient boasts antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that soothe and slow down premature skin aging. Bakuchiol also appears to be effective in preventing excess sebum and the formation of skin imperfections, as well as blurring the intensity of hyperpigmentation marks. Other formulas based on plant extracts and other interesting substances can also “compete” with the benefits derived from synthetic Retinol.
Product selection (by way of example) :
- MADARA : Plant-powered Serum
- SANTA VERDE : Bakouchiol Drops
4) Opt for antioxidant skin care products such as vitamins C and E
Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals responsible for premature skin aging. Vitamin C, for example, is particularly effective in evening out skin tone and reducing dark spots. Some studies have shown that topical application of vitamin C can promote collagen production. As for vitamin E, it helps strengthen the skin barrier and soothe irritation.
The importance of collagen
As a matter of fact, as we age, it’s normal and natural for collagen levels in our bodies to decline. Collagen levels begin to decline by around 1% every year from the age of 25. During the perimenopause phase, the skin loses around 30% of its collagen. Darker skins, naturally richer in collagen, retain their structural integrity and youthful appearance longer than lighter skins. Adding collagen in the form of dietary supplements can be an interesting additional solution. (see nutrition, below).
Product selection (by way of example) :
- PATYKA : Pro Collagen Lift Mask
- LAVERA : Firming Day Cream
Perimenopause and imperfections… the return of hormonal acne?
The inconveniences of the (peri)menopause are sometimes accompanied by skin imperfections and even acne flare-ups, similar to those seen in adolescence.
This is due to a reduction in the production of estrogen and progesterone, which help maintain a balanced inflammatory system. And the gradual decline in estrogen, which no longer counterbalances androgen secretion. Taking care of imperfections during perimenopause is important, but certainly not with just any product. After all, products for skin imperfections, such as those used during adolescence, are often far too aggressive and further disrupt the skin’s precious hydrolipidic film. There are now also specific products for the imperfections of mature skin, including organic cosmetics.
Product selection (by way of example) :
- MIYÉ : perfecting hydrating emulsion
- PHYT’s Purity Mattifying Cream
How to adapt your beauty routine to the (peri)menopause ?
For women in perimenopause and even menopause, the approach is relatively simple: favor cosmetics that are both gentle and moisturizing, while avoiding ingredients likely to further unbalance the metabolism or irritate the skin.
Ingredients to avoid in perimenopause
Which ones do you think they are?
All the controversial ingredients you’d do well to avoid for the rest of your life!
Focus on a few groups of problematic, potentially toxic and polluting ingredients. There’s no need to learn this list by heart – it’s bound to be incomplete, given the number of controversial ingredients that can be found in conventional cosmetics. This list is by no means exhaustive, and represents only a fraction of the problematic ingredients that can be found in cosmetics and beauty products in general. The issue itself is quite complex, as there are many problematic and controversial compounds at various levels in different categories of beauty products. The subject should therefore not be oversimplified and reduced to a few harmful ingredients.
There are, however, a few categories of highly problematic components, such as the following:
Educate Yourself on Controversial Ingredients
Start your journey by getting informed about controversial ingredients commonly found in beauty products. You can use the website’s free INCI research tool and dive deeper into the subject with the different articles on the website.
1. Educate Yourself on Endocrine Disruptors
Endocrine disruptors are harmful chemicals present in various beauty products. These chemicals can interfere with your hormonal balance and potentially lead to serious health issues. It is never enough to choose beauty products labeled as « paraben-free » as the products can still contain other endocrine disruptors or harmful ingredients. Certified organic cosmetics however, provide more guarantees, endocrine disruptors are simply not allowed in the formulation process by the different labels. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.
2. Avoid Silicones and mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, etc)
Mineral oils and silicones are still widely used in cosmetics. In general, silicones take a heavy toll on the environment, as they are not, or only to a very limited extent, biodegradable. Some silicones (such as cyclopentasiloxane (D5), for example) are also considered potential endocrine disruptors.
Mineral oils are also widely used in cosmetics today, as they are less expensive than vegetable oils or waxes. Fragrance-free and colorless, they can easily be stored for long periods. These mineral oils used in cosmetics are derived from petroleum (= fossil fuels) and also represent a disastrous ecological balance sheet.
Moreover, mineral oils do not offer the same “skincare quality” as genuine vegetable oils or waxes, and can pose problems on a number of levels. For example, they may contain impurities such as MOSH and MOAH. These are aromatic hydrocarbons, substances classified as potentially carcinogenic, with a problem of accumulation in tissues.
3. Stay Away from PFAS (Perfluoroalkyl Substances)
PFAS (also known as « Forever Chemicals ») are a group of chemicals used in many industries, including cosmetics. They have been linked to adverse health effects and are extremely persistent in the environment. This is a tremendous environmental concern, which of course concerns many other industries. Check the ingredient list for PFAS-related compounds like PTFE or perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and educate yourself on the subject as well.
4. Be Mindful of certain synthetic Preservatives
Preservatives are essential to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend the shelf life of cosmetics. However, some synthetic preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol have been linked to skin irritations and allergies and other more serious health concerns. Others fall into the category of endocrine disruptors (some parabens, triclosan, BHT etc).
The importance of lifestyle in perimenopause
Beyond the question of which beauty products to use during perimenopause, let’s not forget that cosmetics are only part of the global picture. To get better and cope better with the symptoms, you should (re)consider your daily lifestyle : diet, stress management, sleep, physical activity, alcohol and tobacco consumption, social ties, etc., etc… The classics !
Can diet influence what the skin looks like during perimenopause?
In addition to skin care, diet plays a crucial role in maintaining skin and body healthy during perimenopause. A diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins (A, C, E) and omega-3 fatty acids can help support skin aging and maintain skin hydration. Foods such as oily fish (salmon, mackerel), nuts, fresh fruit and vegetables (especially berries, spinach, citrus fruits), and vegetable oils (olive oil, linseed oil) are considered particularly beneficial.
Food supplements specifically designed for (peri)menopause
Certain dietary supplements can also be of great help. Hydrolyzed collagen, for example, is often recommended to improve skin elasticity and firmness. Many of our body’s vital structures depend on collagen for strength and support. Collagen is an important building block of our skin, bones, muscles, tendons, ligaments, blood vessels, corneas and teeth. Collagen therefore plays an essential role in maintaining the suppleness and hydration of all these body parts.
Phytoestrogens (found naturally in flaxseed, soy or in the form of dietary supplements) can also help compensate for the drop in estrogen. Finally, vitamin D and calcium are essential for bone health, which can be affected by hormonal fluctuations, while probiotics support digestion and can contribute to better absorption of nutrients beneficial to the skin.
How can dietary supplements help perimenopausal skin?
Adopting a balanced diet and taking the right supplements can not only improve the appearance of the skin, but also support overall health during this transitional phase.
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Conclusion
Perimenopause is a pivotal phase in a woman’s life, and the skin’s needs will evolve with hormonal changes. Adapting your skincare routine with specific moisturizing and protective products can help preserve the skin’s radiance and health.
Furthermore, avoiding controversial, potentially toxic ingredients on a daily basis (and not just in cosmetics!) remains essential to limit potential health risks in general, and preserve hormonal balance wherever possible.
Adopting the right gestures and choosing the adequate beauty products is part of the process. The other part would be to find the perfect personal “lifestyle” formula for your daily life at this stage (diet, physical activity, etc.). The one that will enable you to get through this period a little more serenely, while taking care of yourself. And don’t forget that many other women will be confronted with similar problems, so exchanging on the subject will be part of the program to get better!
