Beyond the Label - Unveiling the Hidden Dangers in Cosmetics :
Why just going « fragrance free » isn’t enough
Just going «fragrance free » and avoiding parabens or phthalates is not enough…But why ?
In the pursuit of healthier living and conscious consumerism, many individuals are turning their attention to the ingredients list on cosmetic products. Recognizing the potential harm of certain chemicals, consumers have become adept at avoiding well-known toxic ingredients.
However, relying solely on these recognized harmful substances is a limited approach. There’s a deeper issue at play—the vast array of problematic ingredients that remain unregulated. This article explores why avoiding just a couple of harmful or toxic ingredients in cosmetics is not enough and delves into the unpredictable nature of unqualified, potentially toxic substances that might be lurking in our beauty products.
Hidden Hazards:
The cosmetics industry is a constantly evolving landscape, with new ingredients and formulations developed to meet changing consumer demands. The downside is that not all of these innovations undergo rigorous testing before hitting the shelves—even though there are significant differences on this point between Europe and the US.
But the problem remains the same on an international level: a large amont of tested substances that have identified health hazards still remain available for cosmetic formulations, sometimes with restrictions.
Consequently, consumers may be exposed to unforeseen health risks, especially when considering the potential synergistic effects of various chemicals present in a single product. Certain ingredients may have a limited potential toxicity on their own, but when combined with other problematic substances present in a product, they can create a harmful cocktail – known in the scientific community as the «cocktail effect». Without comprehensive testing of every possible combination, it becomes nearly impossible to predict the long-term effects of using a particular cosmetic product.
The Unseen Threat:
Consumers often focus on avoiding ingredients with well-documented harmful effects, such as parabens, phthalates, and fragrances, also because these are the substances that have come up a lot in the media lately. While this is a positive step, it’s crucial to recognize that the absence of these ingredients on a product label does not guarantee safety. Unregulated and under-researched substances may present risks that are not immediately apparent.
Additionally, the concept of « greenwashing » has become prevalent in the cosmetics industry, where products are marketed as «natural» or « formulated with organic ingredients », despite containing potentially harmful ingredients. This misdirection further complicates the task of informed decision-making for consumers.
Why Going Fragrance-Free Isn’t Enough to Avoid Potentially Toxic Ingredients in Cosmetics
As consumers become more informed about the chemicals in personal care products, “fragrance-free” has become a popular choice for those looking to reduce exposure to potentially toxic ingredients. While fragrance-free products are often safer for sensitive skin and a step toward minimizing certain allergens and endocrine disruptors like phthalates, this mention alone doesn’t guarantee safety from all harmful chemicals.
Many products, even fragrance-free ones, may still contain concerning substances, including endocrine disruptors and PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), that carry long-term health risks.
Fragrance-Free vs. Toxin-Free: Understanding the Difference
When people choose fragrance-free products, they’re generally avoiding synthetic fragrances and perfumes known to cause skin irritation, allergic reactions and more serious health issues linked to endocrine disruption (phthalates = identified endocrine disruptors).
Unfortunately, even without added fragrance, these products may still contain chemical preservatives, plasticizers, ado dyes, microplastics and numerous other problematic synthetic chemicals. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), for example, are commonly found in cosmetics and can interfere with the body’s hormonal system, potentially leading to health problems like hormonal imbalances, reproductive issues, developmental disorders and more.
PFAS are another family of chemicals often overlooked in cosmetic products. These “forever chemicals” are valued for their durability and water-resistant properties, but they don’t break down easily and can accumulate in the body. Some PFAS fall again into the endocrine disrupting category: PFAS exposure has been linked to immune system suppression, certain cancers, and other health risks.
But there are numerous other controversial, potentially toxic ingredients that can still be found in conventional cosmetics today.
Let’s take a substance like Triclosan -an antibacterial agent and preservative- as an example.
Triclosan (and its cousin Triclocarban) has been identified as an extremely problematic substance, both in Europe, the US and elsewhere… but can still be found in numerous products on the market today.
In 2017 The Florence Statement on Triclosan and Triclocarban documented a consensus of more than 200 scientists and medical professionals on the hazards of and lack of demonstrated benefit from common uses of triclosan and triclocarban.
« Based on extensive peer-reviewed research, this statement concludes that triclosan and triclocarban are environmentally persistent endocrine disruptors that bioaccumulate in and are toxic to aquatic and other organisms. »
In Europe, Triclosan has been evaluated under REACH, resulting in its classification as an endocrine-disrupting substance. But the substance can still be found in beauty products today, even if its use has been restricted.
Triclosan, once a common ingredient in antibacterial soaps and other personal care products, has been a subject of scrutiny due to its potential environmental and health risks. Consequently, Triclosan is restricted in cosmetic products in the EU.
The following restrictions apply :
Max. 0.3% in toothpastes, hand soaps, body soaps and shower gels, deodorants (without sprays), facial powders and blemish correctors, nail products for cleaning fingernails and toenails prior to application of artificial nail systems. Not to be used in toothpastes intended for children under 3 years of age. Mandatory labeling for toothpastes containing triclosan: “Do not use in children under 3 years of age”.
The Limitations of Regulation, both in Europe (REACH) and the US (FDA)
REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals and entered into force on 1 June 2007 in Europe. REACH places responsibility on industry to manage the risks from chemicals and to provide safety information on the substances. The regulation lays down a number of provisions and obligations for producers and importers of chemical substances, reversing the burden of proof from the public authorities to industry. In other words, it is now up to industry to demonstrate that its substance can be used without risk to human health or the environment.
Regulatory bodies, such as REACH in Europe and the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) in the United States, play a crucial role in safeguarding consumers by setting standards for cosmetic ingredients. But substances are often evaluated and regulated on different terms on an international level. One significant case that highlights the disparity in regulatory evaluation is Triclosan.
FDA (US) approach on Triclosan
The United States for instance has taken a different approach. While the FDA has banned triclosan in over-the-counter antibacterial hand soaps, its use in other cosmetic and personal care products is not similarly restricted.
When it comes to Triclosan the European approach seems more restrictive. But it’s not always as simple as that.
The limitations, within the REACH system
There are considerable limitations, even within the REACH system : many potentially toxic substances already on the market have not yet been assessed or regulated as strictly as they should. The varying standards between regions also raise concerns about the consistency of protection afforded to consumers and highlight the need for harmonized global regulations.
And simply « restricting » an identified endocrine disruptor within products won’t be enough, especially if we take the « cocktail effect » into account.
Beyond Fragrance-Free: How to Choose Truly Safer Cosmetics
For consumers who want to avoid not only fragrance and just a couple of problematic, potentially toxic chemicals, here are a few steps to consider:
1. Educate Yourself on Controversial Ingredients
Read Beyond Labels: Start your journey by getting informed about controversial ingredients commonly found in beauty products. You can our website’s free INCI research tool and dive deeper into the subject with the different articles on the website.
2. Educate Yourself on Endocrine Disruptors
Endocrine disruptors are harmful chemicals present in various beauty products. These chemicals can interfere with your hormonal balance and potentially lead to serious health issues. It is never enough to choose products labeled as « paraben-free » « fragrance free», etc as the products can still contain other endocrine disruptors or harmful ingredients. Certified organic cosmetics however, provide more guarantees, endocrine disruptors are simply not allowed in the formulation process by the different labels. If the product is not certified, make sure to check the ingredient list.
3. Avoid Silicones and mineral-oil derived ingredients (Petrolatum, Paraffinum etc)
Silicones are commonly used in beauty products to create a smooth texture and long-lasting effects. However, they represent a huge toll on the environment, as they are not biodegradable. Some silicones (such as cyclopentasiloxane (D5), for example) are also considered endocrine disruptors. Mineral oils are also widely used in cosmetics today, as they are less expensive than plant-based oils or waxes. These mineral oils used in cosmetics are derived from petroleum (= fossil fuels) and also represent a disastrous ecological balance sheet. Moreover, mineral oils do not offer the same “skincare quality” as genuine plant-based oils or waxes, and can pose problems on a number of levels. For example, they may contain problematic impurities such as MOSH and MOAH. These are aromatic hydrocarbons, substances classified as potentially carcinogenic, with a problem of accumulation in tissues. Again, silicones and mineral oil derived ingredients are not allowed in certified organic cosmetics.
4. Stay Away from PFAS (Perfluoroalkyl Substances)
PFAS (also known as « Forever Chemicals ») are a group of chemicals used in many industries, including cosmetics. They have been linked to adverse health effects and are extremely persistent in the environment. This is a tremendous environmental concern, which of course concerns many other industries. Check the ingredient list for PFAS-related compounds like PTFE or perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and educate yourself on the subject as well.
5. Be mindful of certain synthetic Preservatives
Preservatives are essential to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend the shelf life of cosmetics. However, some synthetic preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers or phenoxyethanol have been linked to skin irritations and allergies and other more serious health concerns. Others fall into the category of endocrine disruptors (some parabens, triclosan, BHT etc).
6. Embrace Organic (certified!) Cosmetics
Choose Certified Brands and « certified organic »- products – brands which have certification seals from respected organic regulatory bodies. Brands with certifications, such as USDA Organic, COSMOS, Cosmébio, BDIH, NATRUE, SOIL Association, AIAB, Ecocert, etc have stricter ingredient policies.
5. Use Reliable Apps and Resources :
Besides the ressources you can find on our website : ingredient lists, in-depth articles, additional informations, (both available in french and english) tools like the EWG Skin Deep database provide information on potentially harmful ingredients, helping consumers make more informed choices.
Conclusion: Beyond « Fragrance-Free » A Step Toward Safer Cosmetics
In the quest for safer cosmetics, it’s essential to go beyond avoiding a couple of well-known harmful ingredients. The ever-expanding list of cosmetic ingredients, coupled with the limitations of regulatory processes, underscores the need for a more vigilant and informed approach to beauty product choices.
Consumers should advocate for stronger regulations, increased transparency, and more rigorous testing of cosmetic ingredients. By supporting brands that prioritize safety and disclosure, individuals can contribute to a shift in industry standards. Ultimately, a comprehensive understanding of the potential risks associated with cosmetic ingredients will empower consumers to make informed choices, ensuring that the pursuit of beauty doesn’t compromise health.
Going fragrance-free and avoiding parabens and phthalates can be a good start toward reducing chemical exposure, but it’s not a complete solution for avoiding toxic ingredients. By staying informed about potentially harmful chemicals like endocrine disruptors and PFAS, reading labels carefully, and using resources that prioritize ingredient safety, consumers can make better choices and move closer to genuinely safer skincare and personal care routines.
